How much does it cost?

VFI aims to be competitive with our prices, but it will ultimately depend on the availability of raw materials and the raw materials used in the formula. Also, because we manufacture our own products, it keeps prices down and gives us full control of the manufacturing process.

How soon can I use the form after the coating has cured?

The form can be placed into service after curing for 16 hours at room temperature. It will take 4-5 days at room temperature to obtain full strength and formulated properties.

How often should I use mold release during the casting process?

A release agent should be applied after each cast to maintain the integrity of the form coating. This will prevent the casting material from bonding to the surface.

Do I need a release agent on the form coating before casting?

Yes, we recommend using a concrete or stone release agent like ChemTrend’s CR-19597, which is ready to use or can be diluted.

Can the form coating be repaired?

Yes, the form coating can be repaired. Sand down the areas that have become worn or damaged and apply a new coat of material.

How long will the form coating last?

The form coating epoxy is meant to be reapplied after it has worn down. All you need to do is sand down the existing coating to remove casting residue and apply a new coat.

Can my magnets go through the coating?

Yes, but the number of layers depend on the strength of the magnet. We recommend no more than three layers to ensure good magnetic strength.

Do you need to apply the form coating in multiple coats?

Yes, since we recommend applying at 20 mils, you must apply the coating in multiple layers to build thickness. The surface must be sanded between each layer to ensure adhesion of the next coat.

Can the form coating be sanded?

Yes, the form coating epoxy is hard enough for sanding to provide a uniform casting surface. However, an approved respirator should be used because airborne particles can be toxic if ingested.

How thick should I apply the form coating?

The coating should be applied evenly at a rate of 20 mils per layer. Back rolling can help achieve a uniform thickness. The total thickness should not reach 250 mils or a quarter inch.

How do I mix the form coating?

Premix the B side material. Measure the correct amounts of the A and B sides before combining them. VFI-4385 has a mix ratio of 2A:1B by volume or 100A:44B by weight. Mix up only what you need to prevent excess material. After mixing in one container, transfer to a new, clean container and mix again.

When ready to apply, do not leave the material in the mixing container. It will over-generate heat, which will cause it to thicken and cure faster. Leaving it in the container too long can cause an extreme buildup of heat and may cause the material to smoke.

At what temperature should the form coating be applied?

The form coating has the best performance when applied at temperatures between 60-80°F. If the temperature is above the recommended maximum, the working time of the coating will decrease. The material must be stored in sealed containers between 60-90°F when not in use.

What do you use to apply the form coating epoxy?

While the epoxy can be applied using a non-shedding chip brush, VFI typically recommends using a non-shedding nap roller. It makes it easier to keep the surface uniform without brush strokes or other surface defects. Mil gauges are also used to maintain an even thickness.

What color is the form coating epoxy?

The coating is a bold blue color, making it easier to track when applying in layers.

What other surfaces can a form coating epoxy be applied to?

A form coating epoxy can also be applied to EPS foam. Before you coat the surface, the foam must be aged for at least 30 days. VFI recommends using foam between 1 and 3 PCF, but 2 PCF foam will offer the best cost-to-quality ratio. If the foam is clean and dry, the coating can be applied directly to it.

Can the form coating be used on metal?

Yes, it can be used on metal surfaces like steel as long as it is clean and sanded or sandblasted to SP6. Any rust, mill scale, dirt, or other contaminants can hinder adhesion, so the surface must be properly prepared.

Can the form coating be used on wood?

Yes, it can be used on wood as long as it is clean, relatively dry, and sanded. Properly preparing the surface will ensure the adhesion of the coating.

What is the difference between epoxy and polyurethane?

Epoxies and polyurethanes are thermosetting polymers that can be formulated for various uses. When formulated for form coating, these materials differ slightly.

A form coating epoxy can only be applied by brush or roller, whereas a urethane form hard coat can be applied by low pressure, high pressure, or Qwik Spray equipment.

The epoxy is harder than the urethane and has greater tensile strength. It is moisture-insensitive, meaning it can be used in damp and humid environments. Urethanes have a shorter pot life but also have a shorter cure time than epoxies for quicker turnarounds on projects.

Are there alternatives to a form coating epoxy?

Yes, VFI does offer a few different alternatives to epoxy. The VFI-2538 70 D EPS Form Hard Coat is an alternative coating for EPS surfaces that must be protected from abrasive casting materials. Alternatively, VFI offers a handful of TDI molding rubbers ranging from 25 A to 95 A in hardness for making cast stone molds, manufactured stone molds, formliners, and stamps.

What is a form coating made of?

VFI’s form coating is an epoxy. Epoxy is hard, durable, and can be used on various surfaces, including wood, metal, and foam.

What is a form coating?

A form coating is used to protect and seal expensive precast forms and surfaces, preventing abrasive casting materials from damaging them. It also enables castings to release from the surface easier for a smooth finish.

How much does it cost?

VFI strives to keep our prices competitive, but it ultimately depends on the availability of raw materials and the materials used in the formula. Also, polyurea hybrids when compared to pure polyurea coatings provide a good balance of properties, moisture insensitivity, and price.

What happens if the bedliner is damaged? Is it repairable?

Yes, Volatile Free, Inc. offers a bedliner repair material called VFI-520 QS Bedliner Repair that you can use on scratches, blisters, and other damages. It can be applied by brush or injected using the VFI-7500 Qwik Spray Gun.

How to clean spray on bedliner?

Regularly remove dirt, debris, and other grime that has built up from use. You can use a hose or a pressure washer to clean the truck bed with soap and water. Avoid harsh chemicals that may damage the material.

How long do polyurea hybrid coatings last?

When applied correctly and regularly maintained, a spray on truck bedliner should last the entire life of the truck. If repair is needed, VFI offers a thickened polyurea hybrid as a repair material for scratches, gouges, and other blemishes.

Will the bedliner fade over time?

Yes. All VFI bedliners are aromatic, which means they are not UV-stable. If you want to maintain the color of your bedliner, you’ll need to apply a clear aliphatic top coat like VFI-2580.

How soon can the truck bed be used after spraying?

We recommend waiting at least 4 hours after application for light use of your truck bed and a full day (24 hours) before heavy-duty use. The bedliner will gain full strength and formulated properties 5 days after application.

How much material do I need to coat a truck bed?

When spraying VFI-544, we recommend using 6 cartridges (a full case). A full case is just under 2 gallons of material and gets you around 100 mils thick without any loss.

VFI-542 and VFI-543 can be ordered in drums or totes, so about 2 gallons from those containers will also coat one truck bed at around 100 mil thickness without any loss.

How thick should I apply the bedliner?

VFI recommends applying the material at a minimum of 80 mils for long-lasting results.

How long does it take to spray a truck bed?

It can take 2-4 hours to prepare the surface by sanding or priming, tape off areas you don’t want material to get onto, and then spray the truck bed.

Do I need a primer?

Primers are usually not required on properly prepared metal surfaces. Scuff the areas you are coating with a wire cup brush sander or 40-grit sandpaper. If you need a primer, VFI recommends either VFI-1016 Steel Primer or VFI-1017 Porous Surface Primer.

What surface prep is required before applying spray on bedliner?

The surface must be cleaned with acetone before application. Tape up the truck bed with wire trim tape and shield surfaces from overspray with plastic or paper sheets. Scuff sand the area you are coating with a wire cup brush sander or 40-grit sandpaper. Primers are usually not required if the metal is properly prepared.

What temperature should I use the material at?

VFI spray on bedliners must be sprayed between 40°F and 100°F. The cure speed of the material will increase if the temperature passes 72°F.

Does your spray on bedliner come in different colors?

VFI high-pressure, low-pressure, and Qwik Spray bedliners can be pigmented. The premium colors offered are light gray, red, blue, pewter, yellow, and green. These materials are not UV color stable and require an aliphatic top coat like VFI-2580 to prevent fading.

What kind of packaging do your bedliners come in?

For our high pressure bedliner, it can be purchased in drums or totes. The low pressure bedliner can be purchased in pails, drums or totes. The Qwik Spray formula comes in cartridges with 6 cartridges per case.

Is high pressure material better than low pressure material?

While some manufacturers will tell you that high pressure is better than low pressure bedliners, they both perform as expected. Our low-pressure spray bedliner is an economical option with a lower hardness (40 A) and a slightly slower cure than our high-pressure version. It may provide a slightly thicker texture, better for skid resistance. Either version will still provide the same quality and durability.

What are the application options for your bedliner?

VFI spray on bedliner comes in three formulas: high pressure, low pressure, and Qwik Spray for different processing needs.

Does the spray on truck bedliner withstand temperature extremes?

VFI bedliners offer extended protection from wear in extreme temperatures while maintaining flexibility to prevent cracking. They also form a seamless membrane to keep water from penetrating the surface, preventing rust and corrosion.

How are spray in bedliners better than drop in liners?

Spray in bedliners offer more durability than drop in liners. Drop in liners have to frequently be replaced because they crack, break, and warp over time. Spray in bedliners are an almost permanent solution to protect your truck bed. They form a seamless film over the prepared metal to keep out dirt, debris, moisture, and other contaminants. They are more likely to last the entire lifetime of your truck.

What is the difference between an aliphatic and aromatic bedliner?

Aliphatic bedliners are UV stable and will not fade over time, while aromatic bedliners will fade and chalk over time when in direct sunlight. Most bedliner on the market are aromatic, but VFI offers a clear aliphatic top coat to prevent color fading and degradation.

What is your spray on bedliner made of?

VFI’s bedliners are a cost-effective blend of both polyurethane and polyurea. They offer the best characteristics of each material, including properties, cost, and moisture sensitivity.

Why isn’t my urethane rubber mold curing?

There are a few reasons urethane rubber might not cure. If you’re seeing spots or streaks of uncured material, it’s likely that the material wasn’t thoroughly mixed before it was poured. The best way to ensure your material is fully mixed is by using a double-mix method. Once your components are measured by weight or volume, combine them in one bucket and mix. Before pouring into your mold box, pour the material into another container and mix again. This reduces the likelihood of seeing these streaks or spots of uncured material.

Another reason urethane rubber might not cure is due to an off-ratio mix. It is essential to follow the mix ratio of each material precisely, whether using volume or weight. These ratios are what help the material cure. If the mix ratio is not followed, it can result in a sticky, unusable mess.

One last thing to note is temperature. If your work environment, model, or material is too cold, the material will have a hard time curing. Urethane rubber is a room-temperature curing material, so we generally recommend using the material at 77°F for the best results.

Check out VFI’s tech piece for more information on curing issues. 

How can I minimize air bubbles in my mold?

To combat trapped air, you’ll want to work in a temperature-controlled environment. Also, mix the material slowly and pour it into the lowest part of the mold box, allowing the material to spread naturally as you pour. It is also important to give air a way to release when doing molds that are not open backed molds or have severe incuts.

Why am I seeing bubbles and pinholes on my urethane mold?

Bubbles usually indicate that there is trapped air in the mix. One reason bubbles form on the rubber’s surface is due to moisture. Urethane is moisture sensitive and may have reacted with moisture within the mold box or environment. Moisture can come from humidity, a wet or porous model, or wet mixing containers and sticks.

Another reason air bubbles may have formed could be from using too much mold release. While it’s important to use release to ensure the material will demold from the molding surface, using too much will affect the cured surface as well.

Check out VFI’s tech piece to troubleshoot your bubbling issues.

What is your price?

VFI strives to offer competitive prices for our molding rubbers, but it will ultimately depend on a handful of factors, including the availability of raw materials, the raw materials used in the formula, and the properties of the final product. We also pride ourselves on manufacturing our own products, which keeps the price down and gives us full control of the manufacturing process.

Do you sell to other concrete companies?

We have a vast customer base in the concrete industry of manufacturers who use our urethane rubber for precast panels, manufactured stone, cast stone, architectural restoration, hardscape, décor, and more. There’s no limit to what kind of concrete castings you can make with these materials.

How long have you been in business?

VFI has been manufacturing high performance thermoset polymers for almost 30 years. While our origins were a little different to what we currently do, we have always been in the molding material market for industrial applications.

Does your product work?

VFI prides itself on only offering materials that have been thoroughly tested using standard ASTM methods. We have determined through feedback from our customers that our urethane rubbers work in a similar capacity, if not better, than our competitors. Our rubbers are preferred because they are MOCA-free with low-moisture sensitivity, low exothermic reactions, and longer lifespans.

VFI is also an innovator in the concrete casting industry and has created urethane rubbers with release characteristics similar to silicone, which have produced breakage rates as low as 2-3%.

Can you make your urethane in any other colors?

VFI’s TDI-based urethane rubbers come in two distinct colors: blue and neutral. If you want to add color to the neutral version, urethane pigments can be purchased and added to the B side (Poly) material before mixing with the A side (Iso). No water-based pigments should be used.

How should I store my urethane rubber mold?

Clean the mold before you plan to store it. We recommend storing them indoors where there is no chance of UV exposure. The environment should be clean, dry, and temperature-controlled. Also, make sure the mold is stored flat as this will help it from permanently distorting in storage.

Can I store my molds outside? In sunlight?

Do not store your molds outdoors or in direct sunlight. Outdoor conditions can cause the mold to deteriorate before its typical lifespan. UV rays will also change the color of the mold and can cause chalking. Store the mold in a cool, dry environment, out of direct sunlight, where temperature is controlled.

How should I clean my urethane rubber molds?

Urethane molds can be wiped down with soap and water before they are used again or stored for future use.

How often should I use mold release during the casting process?

Because urethane will adhere to anything, apply release after each casting. The release will have worn away during the demolding process, so it’s important to reapply and negate that adhesion. Allow the release to dry before pouring the urethane on top.

How many pulls can I get out of a urethane rubber mold?

The amount of pulls you can get from VFI urethane rubber depends on the properties, what you’re using it for, and how you take care of it. To prolong the life of the mold, you’ll need to use adequate release after each cast so as not to damage the mold or casting. When you store the mold when it’s not in use, you’ll want to keep it in a clean, room temperature-controlled environment. Choosing the proper hardness will also lengthen the life of the mold.

How soon can I use the mold after demolding it? (How long does it need to cure?)

Most VFI molding rubbers must sit for a minimum of 16 hours at room temperature (77°F) before they can be demolded. After demolding, they must sit for another 3 days outside of the mold to develop the necessary green strength for molding purposes. Even though the mold can be used after 3 days, keep in mind that the material requires 7 days to develop full physical properties. Note: during the 3 days, fully support your mold to prevent it from forming into an unwanted shape.

How long until I can no longer repour the material?

Customers who pour large molds will need to pour several batches of rubber to create the thickness needed for a strong mold. As a standard for our molding rubbers with longer pot lives, you will only be able to pour additional rubber up to 4 hours after the initial pour. Staying within the repour window will allow the rubber layers to bond efficiently.

What temperature should I pour the rubber at?

VFI always recommends pouring in the same conditions you will be using the cured product. If you expect to work in warm conditions, pour the rubber in an environment at similar temperatures. The process is the same if you anticipate that you’ll be using the cured product in cold temperatures. The rubber should then be cast in cool temperatures. This will prevent unwanted shrinkage or expansion of the mold that could compromise the casting process. Note: the cure will be affected depending on the temperature that you pour at.

Why is my urethane rubber mold expanding?

If you cast in a really cold environment and then use the mold in a very warm environment, you might notice your mold temporarily expand. You must cast the material in the same conditions you will be using it in when it has cured. We recommend casting against a rigid backing material so the rubber can grip onto it to prevent expansion from occurring further.

Why is my urethane rubber mold shrinking?

If you cast in a really warm environment and then use the mold in a very cold environment, you might notice your mold temporarily shrink. You must cast the material in the same conditions you will be using it in when it has cured. We recommend casting against a rigid backing material so the rubber can grip onto it to prevent shrinkage from occurring further.

Does temperature affect the mold making process?

Yes, the temperature of the environment, material, and models affects liquid urethane when making molds. If the temperature is too cold, it can slow down the pot life and curing process, and if the temperature is very high, it can speed up the pot life and curing process. If it is cold enough, the material may not cure at all. We recommend using urethane rubber at room temperature (77°F).

How do you mix the molding rubber?

VFI recommends a specific double-mix method for mixing our urethane molding rubber. First, you will determine how much material you need and measure that out using the mix ratio by volume or weight. Once you have the A side in one container and the B side in another, thoroughly premix the B side and then combine it with the A side. Mix them until uniform using power mixing or meter mixing equipment. Be sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the container for uniformity. Transfer the material to a new, clean mixing container and mix again. This will ensure a thorough mix before it is poured into the mold box.

Should I measure by weight or volume?

Whether you should pour by weight or volume depends on your unique molding process. If you pour rubber in smaller quantities, either method works. To measure your material by weight, you will need an accurate scale. Since most of our liquid urethane rubbers are 1A:1B by volume, some users find it easier to measure their material that way. If you have a proportioner that automatically mixes large quantities of your material when needed, following the mix ratio by volume is usually the way to go.

Should I use silicone or acrylic caulk to seal my mold box?

When sealing your mold box, you should use acrylic caulk because silicone can inhibit the cure of urethane.

How do I prepare the mold box and model before pouring urethane rubber?

All edges of the mold box must be sealed as well as the edges of your models, so the molding rubber is not able to seep out of the box or underneath the models. To seal the edges, you can use a sulfur-free clay or acrylic caulk. See answer #5 for information about sealing and releasing the molding surface before pouring the urethane.

What happens if I use too much release?

Using too much release may affect the surface of your castings. The surface may have a shiny or gloss-like appearance, which may not be desirable for your application. We recommend spraying light mists of release over your molding surface and allowing it to dry before casting.

Can I use an oil-based release with urethane rubber?

Do not use an oil-based or biodegradable concrete release like soy bean form oil when molding with urethane. These materials can cause your mold to continuously expand as you apply the release.

Do I need a release agent? What kind?

Non-porous surface to urethane: When working with urethane rubber, you must use a release agent to prevent the material from bonding with the casting surface. VFI has had great success using Chem-Trend MR-515 Aerosol with our urethane molding rubbers. You can also utilize a similar silicone-based release agent.

Porous surface to urethane: When working with a porous surface, it must be properly sealed before you begin pouring the molding rubber. VFI recommends creating a mixture of 80% mineral spirits to 20% petroleum jelly by weight to seal the surfaces. After applying several layers with a chip brush, spray a light mist of an aerosol release agent over the entire surface. VFI recommends Chem-Trend MR-515 Aerosol or a similar silicone-based release agent.

Concrete or stone to urethane: When casting concrete into a urethane rubber mold, VFI recommends utilizing one of Chem-Trend’s water-based releases specially designed for releasing concrete from urethane. For example, the CR-19597 is ready to use and can be diluted.

Check out our tech piece if you are having issues removing your castings from a urethane rubber mold. 

Also, VFI recently released a new series of Max Release Molding Rubbers that enhance the releasing characteristics for sensitive projects. Check out our press release for more information.

What kind of clay works best with urethane rubber?

When making a mold, use clay to seal the mold box walls and models so the liquid material cannot slip through or underneath. When using urethane rubber, you’ll want to use a non-hardening, sulfur-free clay to prevent unwanted adhesion or cure inhibition. Do not use water-based sulfurous clay, as urethane is extremely moisture-sensitive and will stick to the clay once it is cured.

How thick should my mold walls be?

Pour thickness will depend on the hardness of the rubber chosen. Because softer rubbers are more flexible, they’re more prone to tearing. Generally, the softer the rubber, the thicker your mold walls should be, and vice versa. For example, VFI-2123 is a 25 Shore A rubber and should be poured at a minimum of 1 inch thick. On the other hand, VFI-2180 is an 80 Shore A rubber and can be poured at a minimum of 3/8 of an inch thick. Check out VFI’s TDI specification sheet or any individual TDS for recommended pour thickness minimums.

How much urethane rubber do I need to make a mold?

To determine how much mold rubber you need, you’ll first need to calculate the cubic volume (formula: length x width x height) of your mold box and models. Once you have those volumes, you’ll subtract the model volumes from the mold box volume. This will be the remaining space in the mold box that needs to be filled.

All VFI’s molding rubbers list specific volumes on each technical data sheet (TDS), so once you find that number, divide your volume by it to convert it into weight (formula: volume / specific volume = total weight (A side + B side)). Always weigh up more product than you might need to account for loss in the container or for any math errors.

What durometer of rubber do you think I need?

The best durometer for your project will depend on your unique project requirements. For cast stone applications, we recommend using one of our 25-40 A rubbers. For manufactured stone applications, we recommend using one of our 30-60 A rubbers. For advanced detail formliners, we recommend using one of our 50-70 A molding rubbers. For simple formliners and stamps, we recommend using one of our 60-90 A molding rubbers. Projects that require extreme detail, such as architectural restoration, will want to use a lower durometer rubber. Projects that require a large amount of rubber to hold heavy, abrasive casting material will want a harder rubber that can withstand the weight.

Can a hard coat be repaired if damaged?

Yes, VFI hard coats can be repaired if damage occurs to a newly applied or old coating. When repairing a hard coat, we recommend using one of our brushable hard coats, whether the initial hard coating was applied by brush or spray. VFI-2519 75 D Brushable Hard Coat or VFI-2626 65 D Brushable Hard Coat are great for making patch repairs.

To repair the hard coat, remove any remaining broken-off pieces in or around the damaged area. To ensure adhesion of the repair material, you must sand the existing coating around the damage. Once the damaged area is prepared, mix up your repair material by weight or volume. Fill the crack, hole, or damage to be level with the rest of the hard coated surface. Allow the patch to cure before sanding or painting it.

Check out VFI’s tech piece for more information on repairing hard coat.

Can I apply an architectural finish to the coating?

All VFI hard coats are designed to be primed and painted if desired. They will accept automotive primers and paints as well as architectural finishes. We ask that you do your own testing to see what works best for your project, but we have seen success whether customers use a primer or not between coatings and finishes.

Do hard coats need to be painted?

Hard coats do not have to be painted, but most applicators do paint over them to enhance the aesthetics of the overall piece. If they are not painted, a suitable UV stable top coat is required as they are not color-stable.

How long until I can paint the hard coat?

The amount of time after application that the hard coat needs before it will be ready for painting will depend on the formula and temperature. Allow the coating enough time to cure before you start painting. Due to brushable hard coats having a longer pot life, they will need more time to cure before painting. High pressure spray hard coats can typically be painted shortly after application since the coating cures in seconds (if you’re working in a temperature-controlled environment).

How long until I can sand the hard coat?

The amount of time the hard coats need after application before it will be ready for sanding will depend on several factors. Allow the coating enough time to cure to a desirable hardness for sanding. The formula will change the cure time, so brushable hard coats, because of their pot life, will need more time before sanding to cure. A high pressure hard coat can typically be sanded shortly after application since it cures in seconds (if you’re working in a temperature-controlled environment).

Does the hard coat have a smooth finish?

Yes, VFI’s hard coat products are formulated to go on smoothly, but the texture may vary depending on the application method. Brush application may create a more textured feel and appearance due to brush strokes, which may require sanding depending on your desired finish. The Qwik Spray version may also have a slightly textured appearance because it’s a slowed formula, and the speed allows it to react more with the environment and moisture in the air, causing this effect. When the high pressure formula is not used, users might have to do more post-work to their pieces.

Why am I seeing small air bubbles form as the coating cures?

Air bubbles typically occur in a polyurethane hard coat due to moisture. Urethane is a moisture-sensitive material, so if it reacts with a substantial amount of moisture in the environment, it will cause a foaming reaction that generates these air bubbles.

Make sure you’re working in a temperature-controlled, non-humid environment. We recommend applying the material around 72°F. Avoid using hard coatings over a wet or damp substrate. If you apply them over wood, it should contain less than 11% moisture.

Check out VFI’s tech piece to troubleshoot bubbling issues. 

When is the hard coat fully cured?

The hard coat is fully cured when it has obtained full physical properties. Our formulas typically reach these properties three days after application. Brushable hard coats may take a bit longer to reach these properties due to their formula.

If you’re having trouble with your hard coat curing, check out VFI’s tech piece for more information. 

How fast does the hard coat dry or cure?

Dry or cure time will depend on several factors. First of all, the application method plays a part in the speed of the coating. When applying a hard coat by brush, the pot life is increased to allow enough time for the material to be used before it cures. Because the pot life is longer, the time before the material will dry or cure is also longer.

The fastest version of our hard coats is VFI-6170 70 D Spray Hard Coat for high-pressure spray application. This material typically cures to touch in 20 seconds and cures to handle in 2-3 minutes, so you can sand, prime, and paint it much faster.

Temperature also affects cure time. This means temperature of the environment, application surface, and material. Higher temperatures will cause the material to cure faster, while cold temperatures will slow the cure time. We recommend spraying around room temperature (72°F).

Note: initial cure/dry time does not mean the coating will have obtained full physical properties. A complete cure will typically happen three days after application.

Can the hard coat be reapplied if needed?

If you want to reapply or add another coat over the existing material, stay within the recoat window. The high pressure and Qwik Spray formulas have a recoat window of 20 minutes while the brushables have a recoat window of 4 hours. If you want to apply another coat after the window passes, you will have to sand the material to ensure adhesion between subsequent coats. A primer can also be used to generate adhesion between layers.

Do your hard coats need to be applied in multiple coats?

The amount of layers you must apply when using a hard coat depends on your desired coating thickness. If you are spraying larger projects, you may have to spray in multiple passes to coat the entire piece effectively.

How thick do I need to apply the hard coat?

The thickness of the coating will depend on your desired application. For our hard coat products, we typically recommend applying a minimum of 60 mils to create a uniform film that will protect the piece. For more demanding applications where high impact is expected, such as outdoors, we recommend applying 60-120 mils to achieve the best results. Our brushable coatings have the best success at 100 mils and greater.

How do you mix a brushable hard coat?

Pre-weigh the A (Iso) and B side (Poly) material by weight or volume according to the technical data sheet. Pour the Iso into the Poly and mix until uniform. Scrape the bottom and sides of the mixing container to ensure a thorough mix.

Brushable hard coats must be mixed precisely to allow the proper chemical reaction to occur so the coating cures. The trick to using these hard coats is to mix up smaller quantities to extend the pot life. A full mix of VFI-2519 75 D Brushable Hard Coat or VFI-2626 65 D Brushable Hard Coat will yield an 8-minute pot life. If you mix a smaller amount, like 200 grams, it will yield a 15-20-minute pot life.

What is the ambient temperature range for applying a hard coat?

While we recommend applying hard coats when the environment temperature is around 72°F for consistent results, the high pressure coating can be applied between 40-100°F, the cartridge-based formula between 40-120°F, and the brushable between 60-100°F. Note: going above or below 72°F will affect the pot life and cure time of the material.

What type of equipment is needed to apply a hard coat?

The equipment used to apply these hard coats will depend on the product formula. VFI offers formulas with three different application methods: brush, Qwik Spray applicator, and high-pressure spray rigs.

– VFI-2519 75 D Brushable Hard Coat and VFI-2626 65 D Brushable Hard Coat are our brushable options and require chip brushes or trowels.

– VFI-6170 70 D Spray Hard Coat and VFI-6150 50 D Spray Hard Coat are our high-pressure formula and must be sprayed through a two-component, high-pressure spray rig. Several Graco and PMC air, hydraulic, or electric spray machines will accommodate the pressure and temperature required to spray the coating.

– Lastly, VFI-6171 70 D Qwik Spray Hard Coat is offered in a cartridge format. This product requires a compatible applicator gun like VFI-7500 Qwik Spray Gun, which holds 750 mL dual cartridges. To run the Qwik Spray Gun, you will also need an air compressor that can supply clean, dry air at 100 psi and 10 cfm of constant pressure.

Can hard coats be applied by brush?

VFI manufactures two hard coats for brush application: VFI-2519 75 D Brushable Hard Coat and VFI-2626 65 D Brushable Hard Coat. The formulas have extended pot lives to allow ample time to apply them when used in smaller batches. We recommend using these products on small projects or for hard coat repairs.

What kind of primer do you recommend when using a hard coat?

When applying one of our hard coats over EPS, you typically will not need a primer. Always ensure the surface is clean and free of oils, dirt, debris, etc. that could affect adhesion. Some customers choose to use a two-part automotive primer or urethane bonding primer, but we recommend doing your own testing if you plan to try others.

What surface prep is required for these coatings?

VFI requires a surface with a profile that allows for mechanical adhesion in order to apply our coatings. Ensure that the surface to be coated is clean, dry, and free of any contaminants that could affect adhesion. In some instances, a primer may be required.

Can your hard coats be used on materials other than EPS?

VFI’s brushable hard coats can also be applied to wood, metal, and existing hard coats. Make sure these surfaces are clean, dry, and free of contaminants. Existing hard coats must be sanded and/or primed to ensure adhesion between coats.

What type of foam can the hard coat be applied to?

VFI hard coats are recommended for EPS since that is the type of foam designers and fabricators tend to use. It can also be applied to XPS (Styrofoam) or polyurethane foam. Please note that the foam must be aged for 30 days minimum to allow any gas to escape from the manufacturing process.

How much material do I need?

The best way to calculate the amount of material needed is to first determine how thick you want to apply the coating and how many square feet you need to cover.

As a standard, you can cover 100 square feet at 16 mils using 1 gallon of material.

For our cartridge-based formula, we made it easy to determine how many tubes of material you’ll require by offering a Qwik Spray coverage chart. Check it out on the VFI-6171 70 D Qwik Spray Hard Coat product page.

Are your hard coats fire tested?

VFI-6170 70 D Spray Hard Coat and VFI-6171 70 D Qwik Spray Hard Coat are fire tested formulas that have passed the ASTM E84 Class A fire testing.

Can the hard coats be used indoors and outdoors?

For the coating to be used indoors and outdoors, it must be fire tested to meet strict fire safety regulations. VFI has two formulas that are great for indoor and outdoor applications: VFI-6170 70 D Spray Hard Coat and VFI-6171 70 D Qwik Spray Hard Coat.

Can the hard coat be pigmented?

The hard coats can be pigmented with urethane pigments, or you can request VFI to pigment the material, but the coatings are not UV stable and will always require a top coat.

What color is the hard coat?

All VFI hard coats come in an unpigmented neutral color, which is desirable for painting. When using the high pressure formula, clean your spray lines before application to ensure the color is not altered by previous material sprayed through the same lines.

What does 100% solids mean?

When a coating lists 100% solids by weight or volume as a property, that means no solvents or other components leave during the curing process. The amount of material you put down on a surface is the amount of material that will remain when it cures.

How hard are your hard coats?

VFI’s hard coats come in a range of hardnesses from 50 D to 75 D. Since these materials are on the Shore D scale, they have a similar feel to a plastic hard hat.